Most big fashion brands are blind to the risks of water pollution with only 1 in 10 (incl. Gap, H&M, Kering (Gucci) and Inditex (Zara)) fully aware of water pollution risks, according to new CDP research.
Over the last 20 years there has been a twofold increase in the amount of clothing produced, using c. 32 million Olympic swimming pools of water each year.
Yet global environmental non-profit CDP finds most big fashion brands are failing to set targets to reduce water pollution or provide data on water pollution to investors and customers.
For example, H&M was the only top fashion company to mention microplastics, despite their risks to human health and damage to ecosystems.
Just 1 In 10 Fashion Companies Show Awareness Of Water Pollution Across Whole Value Chain
- Of 136 fashion & textile companies requested by investors and customers to disclose water impacts through CDP, less than half (62) provided data in 2019
- Only seven (or 11%) of these 62 companies (including Gap Inc, H&M and Kering) are showing awareness of water pollution across their whole value chain.
- Just one of the 62 companies (H&M) mentions microplastics or microfibers, despite the production, use and disposal of textiles being a major source of microplastics.
- Better water management is good business: companies report over US$180 million in business opportunities related to water pollution reduction.
- Less than a quarter (23%) of analyzed companies are setting targets or goals to reduce water pollution while a mere 6% monitor and report on progress.
London, September 14, 2020: The global fashion & textiles industry is largely blind to the risks of water pollution and is failing to tap into water-related business opportunities, according to a new report published today by CDP, a global environmental non-profit.
CDP research shows the sector’s level of awareness and transparency is low, despite companies increasingly facing material risks from water pollution, including regulatory penalties, losing the social licence to operate and damaged brand image. Less than half of the companies requested to provide data did so, and of those that reported, only one in 10 show awareness that water pollution is a risk across every stage of the apparel value chain.
Yet the fashion & textiles industry is known to be a major polluter of water. This spans all stages of the value chain, from the agricultural runoff from cottonfields causing algal blooms that choke rivers, to the dying process releasing a cocktail of toxic chemicals and the washing of clothes releasing microplastics.
The report, Interwoven Risks, Untapped Opportunities, analyzes data from 62 companies (brands, manufacturers and retailers) involved in the fashion/apparel, footwear & home textiles industry, including Adidas AG, Burberry, Gap Inc, H&M, Inditex and Kering Group. These 62 companies disclosed through CDP’s water security questionnaire in 2019, at the request of investors and corporate customers.
CDP’s analysis found the majority of substantive pollution risks reported by these companies were identified in the manufacturing stages of their value chain. Very few substantive risks were reported in other parts of the value chain known to have a high pollution potential. In fact, only around one in 10 (11%) even acknowledge that product use and disposal can also contribute to water pollution, and not a single company considers pollution at this stage of the value chain to be a substantive financial or strategic risk.
This 11% that shows awareness of water pollution across all stages of the value chain is represented by just seven risk-aware companies: high-street fashion giants Gap Inc, H&M and Inditex (the biggest fashion group in the world and owner of Zara); along with luxury fashion houses Burberry and Kering Group (owner of Gucci and Saint Laurent); American multinational clothing firm Hanesbrands Inc; and South Africa-based multinational retailer Woolworths Holdings Ltd.
Agata Smeets, Director of Supply Chain Sustainability at Gap Inc, commented: “Water is a business-critical issue for the apparel industry, and we recognize its importance across our value chain. We must focus not only on reducing water consumption in our manufacturing operations, which we started tackling with our water reduction goal, but also in raw material cultivation and customer product water use. We are also committed to improving water access and quality, in the regions we operate. Water is a context based, localized issue and the industry will need to continue to work with stakeholders in key water basins across our value chain, including the communities that are impacted by our water usage”.
Marie-Claire Daveu, Chief Sustainability Officer & Head of International Institutional Affairs at Kering Group, added: “Water pollution is one of the six environmental impacts covered by Kering’s Environmental Profit & Loss account for nearly 10 years. Because of the large amounts of water used by tanneries, special wastewater treatment measures are required: we have been working with our suppliers to improve processes, and implement programs to protect the environment all along our supply chain.”
This report follows an open letter, released during World Water Week3, signed by global brands such as Burberry, H&M and Primark along with non-profits including CDP and WWF, which called on the fashion industry to embrace sustainability in the recovery from COVID-19 and to ‘build back better’ with more focus on resilience and sustainability.
Cate Lamb, Director of Water Security at CDP, said: “The pressure is mounting for fast fashion to clean up its act when it comes to water pollution. Investors, regulators, customers, and consumers alike are all calling for change. The industry was hit hard by the COVID-19 crisis this year, and the temptation will be there to prioritize short term gains. But the road to a resilient recovery lies in embracing sustainability and circular economy practices. This is the direction of travel and the companies leading the way will be best prepared for the future.”
Despite the data being reported in 2019, when public concern about plastic waste was at an all-time high, H&M was the only reporting company to mention microplastics or microfibers in their disclosure. This is despite the production, use and disposal of textiles all contributing to the release of micro or nanofibers. The washing of synthetic textiles is one of the primary sources of microplastics in the aquatic environment, accounting for 35% of all microplastics released globally2. These substances have been shown to damage aquatic ecosystems and even accumulate in human body tissue.
Despite a general lack of awareness, there are opportunities to be seized through innovative water management. Fashion & textile companies reported over US$180 million per year in business opportunities related to addressing water pollution, for example through investing in sustainable materials that contribute to improved brand image. CDP's analysis suggests that, in general, such opportunities are significantly underestimated and under-reported.
A survey conducted by McKinsey identified that 66% of U.S. consumers now consider sustainability when making a luxury purchase, with younger generations increasingly stating that they are willing to pay more for products which have a proven minimized environmental impact (Gen X – 17%, Millennial – 26%, Gen Z – 31%)6.
While only 10% of analyzed companies identified opportunities from use of recycled materials, the European Union and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation estimate the circular economy has potential to boost the EU economy by 0.5% of GDP by 2030 and create 700,000 jobs, including in textiles7. The EU Strategy for Textiles, to be released in 2021, is anticipated to drive further action and could spark circular economy policy developments in other regions.
Water pollution has been called an ‘invisible crisis’ by the World Bank4, and through its excessive water usage, the apparel and textile industry is a major contributor. In 2015 alone, the sector used 79 billion cubic metres of water. Meanwhile the UN has estimated that globally, 80-90% of wastewater is returned to the environment untreated5.
CDP runs the world’s leading environmental disclosure system. In 2019, 8,400 companies in total disclosed through CDP’s disclosure platform on climate change, forests and/or water security. In 2020, 515 investors with US$106 trillion in assets and 150+ major purchasers with US$4 trillion in buying power called on companies to disclose.
Notes to editor
CDP’s full report Interwoven Risks, Untapped Opportunities is available online at: https://www.cdp.net/en/research/global-reports/interwoven-risks-untapped-opportunities
The page will go live at the embargo time: 00:01 BST, September 14, 2020.
The report is based on the questionnaire responses of 62 major fashion & textile companies – the company list is available in the report’s appendix.
‘Fashion & textile’ is used as shorthand for ‘fashion, apparel, footwear and household textiles’.
For more information, or exclusive interviews, please contact:
- Tegan Tallullah, CDP: +44 (0) 203 818 3915 | [email protected]
- Caroline Barraclough, ESG Communications:+44 (0)7503 771694 | [email protected]
- Sustainable Apparel Coalition, 2020: https://apparelcoalition.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Weaving-a-Better-Future-Covid-19-BCG-SAC-Higg-Co-Report.pdf
- Nature, 2019: https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-019-43023-x
- World Water Week, 24-28 August,is the world’s leading annual conference on water, run by the Stockholm International Water Institute: https://www.worldwaterweek.org/
- Quality Unknown – The Invisible Water Crisis: Report by the World Bank published August 2019: https://www.worldbank.org/en/news/feature/2019/08/20/quality-unknown
- United Nations World Water Development Report 2020: https://en.unesco.org/news/water-resources-essential-part-solution-climate-change
- McKinsey, 2020: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/the-state-of-fashion-2020-navigating-uncertainty
- European Commission, 2018: https://op.europa.eu/en/publication-detail/-/publication/fc373862-704d-11e8-9483-01aa75ed71a1/language-%20en
CDP is a global non-profit that drives companies and governments to reduce their greenhouse gas emissions, safeguard water resources and protect forests. Voted number one climate research provider by investors and working with institutional investors with assets of US$106 trillion, we leverage investor and buyer power to motivate companies to disclose and manage their environmental impacts. Over 8,400 companies with over 50% of global market capitalization disclosed environmental data through CDP in 2019. This is in addition to the over 920 cities, states and regions who disclosed, making CDP’s platform one of the richest sources of information globally on how companies and governments are driving environmental change. CDP is a founding member of the We Mean Business Coalition. Visit https://cdp.net/en or follow us @CDP to find out more.